Walking the old goat trail

Bezirgan is a beautiful, rural village nestling in an ancient lakebed some 700 metres above Kalkan.

Only a few decades ago, locals would spend the winter months in Kalkan and the summer months in the cooler, mountain villages such as Bezirgan. To get to school from Bezirgan the children would have to walk from the village down the old goat track to Kalkan. And after school, back up again!

While today it is forbidden for parents to move with the seasons and the children living in Bezirgan all year are bused to Kalkan, this ancient track with its steep gradient, its rocks and shale, and now part of the Lycian Way, offers up some spectacular scenery.

In April this year we again set out from the ambers – the old grain stores on the southern edge of the village – on this, one of our favourite walks. Armed with water, and wearing sturdy trainers and long trousers to protect us from the thorn bushes along parts of the route, we begin the steady climb up the hill. This is the easy bit!

The old Amber grain stores

Bright spring flowers line the path, butterflies dance around us, birds sing overhead, and the odd tortoise nibbles on the vegitation. I wish I’d thought to bring my binoculars.

As we near the top we remember to keep to the left track – having got badly lost on the right-hand path the first time. We also keep an eye out for the red and white markings of the Lycian way painted on the rocks that show we’re on the right path. 

We stop and turn around to see Bezirgan village below with its fields and majestic mountain peaks, still snow capped, even in spring.

Once we crest the peak the views, as ever, are worth the climb. The glistening sea stretches below us, and Kalkan looks just a small dot on the rugged coastline.

On the way, we take time to explore the ruins of an ancient Byzantium church and the numerous wells the goat herders use for their livestock.

The trail meanders back and forth steadily down the mountain. Again, we take time to enjoy the walk and the beautiful surroundings. We smell the wild thyme along the path, see a mountain goat leap across a small ravine and disappear behind some rocks, and catch sight of an eagle soaring above the mountain tops (damn, again I wish I’d remembered my binoculars). At the right time of year you can also find wild asparagus.

We take our time on the path down, the shale can make it quite tricky. As we approach the bottom, sadly building work has dug up the old track, but the walk is still worth it. We are chuffed to have followed the footsteps of the children who, years ago, walked this trail, and the goat herders. The walk takes us three hours. We imagine those children romping and laughing down the track, unlike the more ginger steps we take at times. And we think of them walking back up after school ­– something that, for us, is definitely a step too far!